It's been a while since my previous post, have been really really busy due to school work and reconstruction of the hydroponic garden. The whole entire garden perished several weeks ago due to the unstable weather here in Cebu, harsh rains with sudden painful hot days have left my plants no time to adjust to the environment which caused them to go through major leaf drop and die. :'( NOOOOOO!
Anyhow... since my operations have decreased in pace, i have added other products to the catalog.
HYDROPONIC NUTRIENT SOLUTION: Php350 per set
This is the Hydroponic Nutrient Solution used for NON-CIRCULATING SYSTEMS. This means, that you DO NOT NEED A WATER PUMP OR AN AERATOR in your system. It operates on a passive aeration process which the plants themselves do, thus saving electricity! :)
If you prefer to use a CIRCULATING SYSTEM, this set can also be used, though the results will not differ as to using it without any machinery.
A set costs PHP 350. It includes 2 bottles, Labelled "HYDRO A" and "HYDRO B".
Instructions:
(1) Mix 25ml of "Hydro A" to 12 Liters of water. (this can be tap water or deep well) Mix thoroughly.
(2) Mix 25ml of "Hydro B" to the mixture from step (1). Mix thoroughly.
(3) Pour into your hydroponic system, enough to submerge the roots of the plants in the water. If your plants don't have any roots yet, pour enough mix to submerge the bottom 1/4 of the plant cup.
(4) refill system with solution when water levels are low or have dried up from absorption or evaporation.
FACEBOOK LINK: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=217131051697521&set=a.150638345013459.38005.100002018836945&type=1&theater
SEEDS: Corelle Lettuce (curly leaf), Romaine Lettuce, Cilantro/Corriander, Purple Basil, Arugula
Seeds are php50 per pack. I assure you that the germination rates are high. Most of the seeds came from my own plant flowers and i have tried them myself. :)
CONTACT DETAILS:
09393257253
CONTACT PERSON: Ulyssa Marie Torbiso
FACEBOOK ACCOUNT: http://www.facebook.com/The.Hydro.Garden
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
Sunday, October 30, 2011
Broccoli Report! - 20th day in Hydroponic system : 35 days old broccoli!
It's been 8 days since my last photo shoot with my little broccoli babies... And i have to admit that since the semester break started, i haven't been paying attention to these guys. I just simply check to see if the water levels are still high. Aside from that, i barely went to see them for about a week.
This afternoon, i was out looking for cuttings to propagate. When i decided, "oh! i might as well check up on my broccoli babies while i'm at it." And what did i find?
I was shocked to see how much they've grown!
Refer to my older posts about my broccoli experiment if you haven't seen the older pictures... but today, i just HAD to show them off!
In total, these broccoli plants have been in the hydroponic system for 20 DAYS! I transplanted them after 15 days, so that makes them about 35DAYS old!
This entry is dedicated to my broccoli ! Enjoy!
This afternoon, i was out looking for cuttings to propagate. When i decided, "oh! i might as well check up on my broccoli babies while i'm at it." And what did i find?
I was shocked to see how much they've grown!
Refer to my older posts about my broccoli experiment if you haven't seen the older pictures... but today, i just HAD to show them off!
In total, these broccoli plants have been in the hydroponic system for 20 DAYS! I transplanted them after 15 days, so that makes them about 35DAYS old!
This entry is dedicated to my broccoli ! Enjoy!
'Till next entry!!
Ulyssa
09393257253
Saturday, October 29, 2011
Treating your seeds to increase germination rate! - Php75 per 100ml of solution for your seeds
Ever went to the grocery store or hardware store to find new packets of different seed varieties? Grabbing each and every kind of variety with a big grin on your face, excited to go home and plant them? However, after 5 days... 10 days... 15 days.. 1 month... only 1-3 sprout from the 50 seeds you planted?
I know i've had my share of that moment more than just a couple of times! And it drives me crazy, knowing that i spent several hours planting many varieties of seeds into individual cups, and lining them up, spraying them day & night, chanting a 'grow-faster' song to them , to find that they eventually wont sprout ... O.o
I have experimented with several variables that can affect germination rate (the % of the total number of seeds that will sprout). There are many variables that can affect it , temperature, humidity, growing medium, heat, water levels, etc.
After all me experiences, i have stuck to one procedure that has resulted into a higher germination rate.
Since sprouting the seed is the first step of almost all (if not all) gardens, it is important that one be able to sprout as many seeds as one can. without the sprout, there will be no plant (if the plant cannot be propagated by cuttings, ofcourse).
1) GROWING MEDIUM
Many people use coco peat, peat moss, gravel, sand, saw dust, regular soil, potting soil or purchase high grade soil just for their seedlings.
I on the other hand, use TISSUE or COTTON.
Have you ever had a science project to sprout Mongo Beans? In english, it is called 'Mung Bean'. What was the most effective way of sprouting them? COTTON BALLS! placing them onto water soaked cotton would let them sprout within 12-24 hours.
I do the same! Now, many people would ask, "Isnt that procedure only effective on mongo beans or fast growing plants? What about other complex plants?"
I have tried this on lettuce, herbs, broccoli, melon, peas, beans and pumpkin seeds and they all produce promising results.
2) SEED TREATMENT WITH FERTILIZER
Many people just place the seed into soil and wait for it to sprout. I'm not saying that that's a bad thing... but seeds need an extra push to sprout. Especially when you're not sure of the brand of seeds you purchased and the germination rate seems low.
I treat my seeds with Organic Liquid Fertilizer. I sell this fertilizer for Php75 per 100ml of liquid. Pricey? Mix this 100ml of liquid to 32L of water and you've got almost a year supply of treatment for your seeds!
Doing this, i'm able to get an 80-95% germination rate on the difficult varieties and a 95-99% rate on the easy plants such as lettuce and basil.
You may experiment with your own commercial fertilizer, but i trust the liquid that i'm using. So if you'd like to give it a go, my number is located all around this blog. :)
PROCEDURE:
1) If using Cotton
- Spread the cotton till it makes a thin carpet, about 1-2cm thick will do.
If using Tissue:
-Take several layers of tissue and place them on top of each other till you get a 1-2cm thick matress of tissue.
2) Take the liquid solution and mix it into some water. **Ratio: 50ml - 16 Liters of water**
3) Pour the liquid onto the cotton/tissue until it is soaked. Allow about 1-2mm of water to flood the medium.
4) Sprinkle your seeds ontop of the tissue/cotton.
5) Redo step no.1
6) take your new blankets of cotton/tissue that you made on step no. 5 and place it over the seeds. What you're gonna have is a burger like picture with the tissues/cotton as buns and the seeds as patties.
7) take the solution and pour it over the top layer of tissue. Do not let it flood, just enough to wet the top layer.
And you're done!
Take note****: do not let the tissue dry up. In the next few days, constantly keep the tissue MOIST not SOAKED! Keeping them soaked for more than 2 days may result to rotting. So you just want to sprinkle more solution onto the top layer of tissue, enough to keep it damp for the next few days.
Keep it away from Direct sunlight. Near the window pane should be good enough.
Transplant the sprouts when they are 2-3cm tall or when you start to see them grow leaves.
Here are pictures of SUGAR PEA seeds that i treated 5 days ago using the very same procedure as explained, and the same liquid solution that i sell. They will be transplanted later this afternoon.
And there you have it! it's not very complicated, isn't it? Actually quite simple, and will save you the frustration. It sure did save me . haha.
So if you want to buy some of the organic liquid solution, it's at php75 per 100ml, you can get them from me. :)
I hope this helps in your gardening experiences!
Happy Gardening, 'till next entry!
Ulyssa
09393257253
http://www.facebook.com/The.Hydro.Garden
I know i've had my share of that moment more than just a couple of times! And it drives me crazy, knowing that i spent several hours planting many varieties of seeds into individual cups, and lining them up, spraying them day & night, chanting a 'grow-faster' song to them , to find that they eventually wont sprout ... O.o
I have experimented with several variables that can affect germination rate (the % of the total number of seeds that will sprout). There are many variables that can affect it , temperature, humidity, growing medium, heat, water levels, etc.
After all me experiences, i have stuck to one procedure that has resulted into a higher germination rate.
Since sprouting the seed is the first step of almost all (if not all) gardens, it is important that one be able to sprout as many seeds as one can. without the sprout, there will be no plant (if the plant cannot be propagated by cuttings, ofcourse).
1) GROWING MEDIUM
Many people use coco peat, peat moss, gravel, sand, saw dust, regular soil, potting soil or purchase high grade soil just for their seedlings.
I on the other hand, use TISSUE or COTTON.
Have you ever had a science project to sprout Mongo Beans? In english, it is called 'Mung Bean'. What was the most effective way of sprouting them? COTTON BALLS! placing them onto water soaked cotton would let them sprout within 12-24 hours.
I do the same! Now, many people would ask, "Isnt that procedure only effective on mongo beans or fast growing plants? What about other complex plants?"
I have tried this on lettuce, herbs, broccoli, melon, peas, beans and pumpkin seeds and they all produce promising results.
2) SEED TREATMENT WITH FERTILIZER
Many people just place the seed into soil and wait for it to sprout. I'm not saying that that's a bad thing... but seeds need an extra push to sprout. Especially when you're not sure of the brand of seeds you purchased and the germination rate seems low.
I treat my seeds with Organic Liquid Fertilizer. I sell this fertilizer for Php75 per 100ml of liquid. Pricey? Mix this 100ml of liquid to 32L of water and you've got almost a year supply of treatment for your seeds!
Doing this, i'm able to get an 80-95% germination rate on the difficult varieties and a 95-99% rate on the easy plants such as lettuce and basil.
You may experiment with your own commercial fertilizer, but i trust the liquid that i'm using. So if you'd like to give it a go, my number is located all around this blog. :)
PROCEDURE:
1) If using Cotton
- Spread the cotton till it makes a thin carpet, about 1-2cm thick will do.
If using Tissue:
-Take several layers of tissue and place them on top of each other till you get a 1-2cm thick matress of tissue.
2) Take the liquid solution and mix it into some water. **Ratio: 50ml - 16 Liters of water**
3) Pour the liquid onto the cotton/tissue until it is soaked. Allow about 1-2mm of water to flood the medium.
4) Sprinkle your seeds ontop of the tissue/cotton.
5) Redo step no.1
6) take your new blankets of cotton/tissue that you made on step no. 5 and place it over the seeds. What you're gonna have is a burger like picture with the tissues/cotton as buns and the seeds as patties.
7) take the solution and pour it over the top layer of tissue. Do not let it flood, just enough to wet the top layer.
And you're done!
Take note****: do not let the tissue dry up. In the next few days, constantly keep the tissue MOIST not SOAKED! Keeping them soaked for more than 2 days may result to rotting. So you just want to sprinkle more solution onto the top layer of tissue, enough to keep it damp for the next few days.
Keep it away from Direct sunlight. Near the window pane should be good enough.
Transplant the sprouts when they are 2-3cm tall or when you start to see them grow leaves.
Here are pictures of SUGAR PEA seeds that i treated 5 days ago using the very same procedure as explained, and the same liquid solution that i sell. They will be transplanted later this afternoon.
And there you have it! it's not very complicated, isn't it? Actually quite simple, and will save you the frustration. It sure did save me . haha.
So if you want to buy some of the organic liquid solution, it's at php75 per 100ml, you can get them from me. :)
I hope this helps in your gardening experiences!
Happy Gardening, 'till next entry!
Ulyssa
09393257253
http://www.facebook.com/The.Hydro.Garden
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Have your own Hydroponic Garden that can grow 40 PLANTS for only Php6000!
My previous posts have been all about my experiments, tips on how to grow this and that ... and then i realized...if i was a random person visiting this blog, or if i was redirected here through my search for Hydroponics in Cebu, i would think, "What's the use of reading all these blog entries when I, myself don't have a hydroponic garden?"
I have many customers that do not only buy potted herbs from me, but also buy hydroponic equipment to start them off with their own hydroponic hobbies. However, they usually buy the items one at a time. These customers are usually the ones who already have an idea on how to make their own systems at home and only require materials like Vermicompost, Nutrient Solution, Seeds or Pipes.
So this time, I've decided to offer an ENTIRE set up for the convenience of those who are new to Hydroponics or those who do not have the time or idea to make a DIY garden.
PRICE: Php6000
INCLUDES:
-Wooden Framework
-5 4feet Square PVC Pipes (8 plant slots per pipe)
-1 Liter Hydroponic Nutrient Solution
-5kg Vermicompost
-5 packets of seeds
-Free Delivery (within South and Cebu City only)
CAPACITY:
The entire system can hold up to 40 plants (5 pipes x 8 slots per pipe)
SPACE CONSUMPTION: (approx.)
Height: 3.5 Feet
Length: 3.5 Feet
Width: 2.5 Feet
It isn't one of those high-tech set ups that require a lot of maintenance. What i'm offering is a very simple and presentable system for you, dear reader or customer, to have at home. I have built a sample of this and I use it for display in my Exhibits. So if you've visited my exhibits once, then you've probably already seen the magic. *laugh*
Below are pictures of the whole set up. (The plants that are in the system are just a few of my many herbs - Basil, peppermint, spearmint, green tea & tarragon. **Plants are not included in the package**)
***TAKE NOTE: Notice on the top and bottom shelves that the plants are not Hydroponic. This was just my personal decision since the other PVC pipes that i use were in another system. In the offered package, there are 5 PVC PIPES included.
WATER PUMP & AERATOR NOT REQUIRED:
When one thinks 'hydroponics', the idea of an aerator and water pump is almost always involved. The system I offer is a 'Non-circulating' system, in which it runs on a passive aerating system. Therefore, no more extra electric consumption, no increase in any of your bills. :)
If you are interested, please contact me directly at: 09393257253, e-mail me at thehydrogarden@yahoo.com, or send me a message on my Facebook account: http://www.facebook.com/The.Hydro.Garden
If i do not answer your call, leave a text message and i will get back to you ASAP. Apologies in advance, i have a busy schedule. :)
'Till Next Entry!
Ulyssa
I have many customers that do not only buy potted herbs from me, but also buy hydroponic equipment to start them off with their own hydroponic hobbies. However, they usually buy the items one at a time. These customers are usually the ones who already have an idea on how to make their own systems at home and only require materials like Vermicompost, Nutrient Solution, Seeds or Pipes.
So this time, I've decided to offer an ENTIRE set up for the convenience of those who are new to Hydroponics or those who do not have the time or idea to make a DIY garden.
PRICE: Php6000
INCLUDES:
-Wooden Framework
-5 4feet Square PVC Pipes (8 plant slots per pipe)
-1 Liter Hydroponic Nutrient Solution
-5kg Vermicompost
-5 packets of seeds
-Free Delivery (within South and Cebu City only)
CAPACITY:
The entire system can hold up to 40 plants (5 pipes x 8 slots per pipe)
SPACE CONSUMPTION: (approx.)
Height: 3.5 Feet
Length: 3.5 Feet
Width: 2.5 Feet
It isn't one of those high-tech set ups that require a lot of maintenance. What i'm offering is a very simple and presentable system for you, dear reader or customer, to have at home. I have built a sample of this and I use it for display in my Exhibits. So if you've visited my exhibits once, then you've probably already seen the magic. *laugh*
Below are pictures of the whole set up. (The plants that are in the system are just a few of my many herbs - Basil, peppermint, spearmint, green tea & tarragon. **Plants are not included in the package**)
***TAKE NOTE: Notice on the top and bottom shelves that the plants are not Hydroponic. This was just my personal decision since the other PVC pipes that i use were in another system. In the offered package, there are 5 PVC PIPES included.
WATER PUMP & AERATOR NOT REQUIRED:
When one thinks 'hydroponics', the idea of an aerator and water pump is almost always involved. The system I offer is a 'Non-circulating' system, in which it runs on a passive aerating system. Therefore, no more extra electric consumption, no increase in any of your bills. :)
If you are interested, please contact me directly at: 09393257253, e-mail me at thehydrogarden@yahoo.com, or send me a message on my Facebook account: http://www.facebook.com/The.Hydro.Garden
If i do not answer your call, leave a text message and i will get back to you ASAP. Apologies in advance, i have a busy schedule. :)
'Till Next Entry!
Ulyssa
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Hydroponic Broccoli! My other experiment
Aside from tomatoes, lettuces, herbs and honey dew melons, I'm am currently giving Broccoli a try. Why? Because it's expensive! I, personally, love broccoli - but since i'm such a cheap buyer, I twitch every time i pick up a tiny broccoli flower at the grocery stores to see that they cost Php40-60! So i wanted to give myself a treat by growing it myself at home.
I've read in several articles that broccoli is a cold-type plant, that loves cool temperatures. Here in Cebu, cool temperatures are impossible to come by, not to include global warming's effects as well. However, hydroponically, it may be possible! That i have to prove! Since they are grown on water, that decreases the temperature by a bit, and since i've positioned them under my trees to get shade during the intense hours of the day, perhaps it will work.
Sprouting the broccoli took a while. And getting them to reach 2cm of height, old enough to transplant into the hydroponic system took an even longer while. In total, it took the plants 15 days in order to be big enough to live in the hydroponic system. Below are pictures of the sprouts upon the night that i transplanted them into the Hydroponic system.
I've read in several articles that broccoli is a cold-type plant, that loves cool temperatures. Here in Cebu, cool temperatures are impossible to come by, not to include global warming's effects as well. However, hydroponically, it may be possible! That i have to prove! Since they are grown on water, that decreases the temperature by a bit, and since i've positioned them under my trees to get shade during the intense hours of the day, perhaps it will work.
Sprouting the broccoli took a while. And getting them to reach 2cm of height, old enough to transplant into the hydroponic system took an even longer while. In total, it took the plants 15 days in order to be big enough to live in the hydroponic system. Below are pictures of the sprouts upon the night that i transplanted them into the Hydroponic system.
15 days old Broccoli Spouts - upon transplanting into Hydroponic System. ***1st DAY IN HYDROPONIC GARDEN*** |
15 days old Broccoli Spouts - upon transplanting into Hydroponic System. ***1st DAY IN HYDROPONIC GARDEN*** |
I have been rather frantic about this experiment.I took pictures of the changes of the plants almost every 2 days. ofcourse, watched water will never boil.. haha.. But after 12 DAYS in the hydroponic system, a total of 27 days old, I gathered all the pictures and compared the differences.
Below is a picture of the different days that i monitored the changes in growth:
As you look closely, you CAN actually see the difference! I was rather shocked, in fact. To see such changes so quickly was remarkable.
I have yet to take notes on tips since this is my first time growing Hydroponic Broccoli. but at the moment, it's doing quite well. I have yet to see if it really does work or not. But hey! I've come this far. :)
'Till Next Entry!
Ulyssa
Tips on Growing Lettuce!
I've stopped growing lettuce for the past few months because of the larger demand for herbs. To make way for those herbs, i had to put my "lettuce production" at a halt. Ofcourse, a solution to that would be to make a bigger system - but as many people say, hydroponics is not exactly the cheapest of hobbies. Sure, there are DIY versions, but the nutrients, the framework, etc. are costly. So, i focus on culinary herbs for the mean time.
But all the experience in growing lettuces are still in this brain of mine, and in today's entry, i will be sharing a few tips on growing them! Many of my customers, aside from those who buy herbs regularly, are also beginners to hydroponics or enthusiasts. Some have never heard of it before - and have started the wonderful hobby after a few conversations and purchasing the equipment and materials from me.
One of the most FAQs is: "What plant do you recommend me to grow first?" My answer to that is "LETTUCE!". On a commercial scale, i'll leave you to research and discover on your own, since i'm not here to build my own competition haha.. But on a personal-consumption and hobby-like scale, I would highly recommend Lettuce to be your first partner when starting a hydroponic garden.
Before I go onto the tips, let's first answer, "Why lettuce?"
1) Fast Yields & Short Growth Time: If you're a beginner, i would assume you were like me when I first started, to have the thinnest patience line EVER! And when dealing with plants, it takes one to understand that one HAS TO BE patient. Lettuce is one the few plants that you can harvest within 30 to 40 days (maximum) hydroponically. If you're thinking, "That's too long!!", like how I first reacted when I began my research, you'll be surprised that in the Gardening-World, 30-40 days is considered a short time. The real test of patience begins when you start growing tomatoes, melons, and other sorts of vegatables which take 3-6months! So yes... one reason to "Why Lettuce?", you will see results!
What is the importance of this, aside from catering to one's thin line of patience? If you're starting a hydroponic garden, let's assume that isn't one of those hi-tech ones within a green house and airconditioning and such, just a simple outdoor hydroponic garden, the environmental variables within your area can affect your plants easily. Since lettuces grow fast, you can see results quickly! If there is anything that you need to adjust or change in your garden, perhaps location and such, you will be able to see it within the first harvest and not after months of waiting.
2) Lettuces are sensitive! Enough to drive you up the wall! I have to admit, that growing lettuces for the first time DID drive me up the wall. Out of all the plants that i've grown, they are the only plants that react to even the slightest changes. Heat, humidity, location, nutrients- you name it!
If this is so, then why recommend it as a beginner's first plant? As mentioned above in number (1), you will see results. From growing lettuces, you will know and understand what you have to do in order to produce good quality plants- what variables to control, what systems to apply - it may be adding a cover, or changing the water, or moving the system to a cooler place, etc.
3) Self- Sufficiency: Lettuces arent exactly expensive, but they arent cheap either. If you're looking at the Ice Berg Lettuce Variety, then it wouldnt be too expensive. But if you're looking at Romaine and Lolla Rossa types, then the prices at the grocery stores can be quite a pinch! At high end grocery stores like Rustans, Ayala or SM, they can go up to Php295 a kilo! Also, these varieties aren't always available. So why not grow them yourself?
4) It's nice to show off! This doesn't seem like a very reasonable reason to start growing lettuces, but from my experience, my lettuces were the reason why my customers ventured into hydroponics in the first place. hahaha. When they see lettuces, and realize that it is possible to grow it at home, it's like love at first sight. Compared to seeing my herbs and other experiments, the lettuces are the ones that really pull them over to trying the hobby out.
How would you like to have your friends or family come over to your house to see a beautiful batch of Lettuces growing in your garden?
Now that I've explained some basic reasons as to why lettuces should be considered as a beginner's first plant, I'll start with those tips!.
HEAT MANAGEMENT:
You've probably wondered if Lettuces can be grown in Cebu in the first place. With our weather, it would seem impossible. Lettuces are usually shipped from the colder provinces or grown in the mountains.
It is good to note: Lettuces don't like heat. A little over just a bit can cause the leaves to wilt or sulk. However, once the clock moves to the late afternoon, the plants revive themselves. So one would ask, "If they revive themselves, why do i have to manage the heat?"
Answer: IT WILL CAUSE THE PLANT TO GO BITTER! Aside from wilting or dying, turning bitter is something you really really want to keep from happening. No one wants to dig into a salad that tastes a whole lot more bitter than Bitter Gourd/Fruit (A.K.A Ampalaya). That's right!
If lettuces are exposed to too much heat, it will cause them to go bitter. So bitter that it isn't worth eating anymore.
Solutions: "So how do I keep them from wilting and going bitter?"
1) Spray with ice water-- You will notice nowadays that from 10-3pm, the sun is intense. The way i manage the heat is by spraying the leaves of the lettuces with ice cold water. This cools them down and keeps them from wilting. Spraying them every other hour until the intensity of the sun goes down is enough.
2) Cover the Hydroponic System -- you will need to cover the system with either transparent plastic, thin cloth, mosquito net, or UV ray sheets to buffer the intensity of the sunlight. I'm quite a picky person when it comes to prices, so i went with the cheapest solution here -- i went to national book store, got a massive roll of plastic that i usually use to cover my college text books, and used that to cover the system. (this goes well with keeping the rain out as well).
***TAKE NOTE: If you've tried growing lettuces before in Cebu or in a hot climate and had them die or note grow at all after they've reached 3-5cm of height? Too much cheat can cause STUNTING. This is where the plant will no longer grow. As for lettuce, it may continue to live for 2 months, but stay at the same size for the entire time. You wouldn't want that.
SUFFICIENT SUNLIGHT:
Just like any other plant, lettuces need sunlight. It is an essential component in the making of chlorophyll.
My first experience with lettuces, i assumed that since they like cool environments, it would be best to keep them shaded. WRONG!
"What happens if the lettuces don't get enough sunlight?"
1) Pale leaves:Without chlorophyll, leaves will turn pale. This signals a malnourished lettuce.
2) In Search for sunlight: lettuces are known to look like big green flowers. They grow OUTWARDS. If they do not have sunlight, they will look for sunlight - they do this by growing very very long stems and move around to look for light.
You will eventually have snake-like lettuces with pale leaves as hair.
Below is a picture of my first try at lettuce - my first failure.
SOLUTION: "So what do I do to ensure enough sunlight and not too much heat?"
If you've been reading carefully, i mentioned earlier to cover the overall system. Notice that the alternatives that I mentioned as a cover were all either transparent or some-what transparent? This is to allow the sunlight to seep in, as well as buffer the heat.
***TAKE NOTE: Lettuces need 4-6 hours of sunlight every day. The best times for this is 7-9am, and 3-6pm.
On my side, I have placed my system under my huge chestnut tree. Early in the morning, the sun rises and allows sunlight to hit the plants. As it goes to noon, the tree casts a shade over my plants as the sun moves. You may want to use this strategy when planning a location for your plants.
***ANOTHER NOTE: Seedling sprouts need sunlight too!
Many people believe that seedling sprouts need to be in the shade - since they're too young, they cannot live under hot and intense sunlight. This is partially true - however, they are still plants in the making, thus they need sunlight. What happens when they don't have sunlight? They too grow thin and long stems, in search for sunlight. THIS IS NOT A GOOD THING!!! Many may think, "oh, the longer it grows, the better, since it's growing bigger".
Seedling sprouts will grow long and tall without sunlight - since they do not have enough nutrients and energy to grow thick stems, their stems are weak. This will result into them falling over and dying. So keep them under partial sunlight, at least 2-3 hours a day will be enough.
HARVEST EARLY:
I made the mistake of thinking , 'The longer the plant grows, the bigger it'll get, and thus - the higher the value".
It is hard to think that plants have an expiration date. As for lettuces, look at them as if they DO have an expiration day. Their expiration day is 40 days. Growing them in the ground, however, may vary. But hydroponically, you MUST MUST MUST harvest them before 40 days.
"What happens if I dont harvest them sooner ?"
1) BITTER: Just like the instance with too much heat, old lettuces will grow bitter. Very bitter.
2) MILK-LIKE SAP: Have you ever tried cutting through a bark of a tree or a plant, and have a milky, sticky sap come out of the wound? Old lettuces will develop a similar reaction, but this time, it's not the stem of the plant that will create the sap. Bite into the leaves, and not only will you have a bitter treat, but the leaves itself will produce this sap. Anywhere on the plant that experiences a wound will produce this sap. Now, don't panic if you do happen to eat a lettuce during this phase; the sap isn't poisonous. It's just not as pleasant to eat.
3) BOLT INTO SEED: If you are growing lettuces to for consumption, then you don't want this to happen. Old lettuces will eventually grow upwards and flower. The flower will then produce seeds.
"How can you tell if they are bolting into seed?" -- I mentioned earlier that lettuces are known to grown outwards. When the plant bolts into seed, it grows upwards, and produces smaller leaves. What you will end up with is a christmas tree - like image. The tip of that image where one would normally put the start at the top, will produce flowers.
And that ends this entry. It may have not been much, but these are my notes in growing lettuces. it sure did help me when growing mine. :)
Do take note that this is just for reference, and i'm not telling you to do every single thing mentioned here. I do this to enhance your gardening experience and perhaps, keep you from making similar mistakes as i have done. haha.. Remember, IT'S YOUR GARDEN! You tailor it to your preferences and yours only.
Happy gardening! 'Till next entry!
Ulyssa
But all the experience in growing lettuces are still in this brain of mine, and in today's entry, i will be sharing a few tips on growing them! Many of my customers, aside from those who buy herbs regularly, are also beginners to hydroponics or enthusiasts. Some have never heard of it before - and have started the wonderful hobby after a few conversations and purchasing the equipment and materials from me.
One of the most FAQs is: "What plant do you recommend me to grow first?" My answer to that is "LETTUCE!". On a commercial scale, i'll leave you to research and discover on your own, since i'm not here to build my own competition haha.. But on a personal-consumption and hobby-like scale, I would highly recommend Lettuce to be your first partner when starting a hydroponic garden.
Before I go onto the tips, let's first answer, "Why lettuce?"
1) Fast Yields & Short Growth Time: If you're a beginner, i would assume you were like me when I first started, to have the thinnest patience line EVER! And when dealing with plants, it takes one to understand that one HAS TO BE patient. Lettuce is one the few plants that you can harvest within 30 to 40 days (maximum) hydroponically. If you're thinking, "That's too long!!", like how I first reacted when I began my research, you'll be surprised that in the Gardening-World, 30-40 days is considered a short time. The real test of patience begins when you start growing tomatoes, melons, and other sorts of vegatables which take 3-6months! So yes... one reason to "Why Lettuce?", you will see results!
What is the importance of this, aside from catering to one's thin line of patience? If you're starting a hydroponic garden, let's assume that isn't one of those hi-tech ones within a green house and airconditioning and such, just a simple outdoor hydroponic garden, the environmental variables within your area can affect your plants easily. Since lettuces grow fast, you can see results quickly! If there is anything that you need to adjust or change in your garden, perhaps location and such, you will be able to see it within the first harvest and not after months of waiting.
2) Lettuces are sensitive! Enough to drive you up the wall! I have to admit, that growing lettuces for the first time DID drive me up the wall. Out of all the plants that i've grown, they are the only plants that react to even the slightest changes. Heat, humidity, location, nutrients- you name it!
If this is so, then why recommend it as a beginner's first plant? As mentioned above in number (1), you will see results. From growing lettuces, you will know and understand what you have to do in order to produce good quality plants- what variables to control, what systems to apply - it may be adding a cover, or changing the water, or moving the system to a cooler place, etc.
3) Self- Sufficiency: Lettuces arent exactly expensive, but they arent cheap either. If you're looking at the Ice Berg Lettuce Variety, then it wouldnt be too expensive. But if you're looking at Romaine and Lolla Rossa types, then the prices at the grocery stores can be quite a pinch! At high end grocery stores like Rustans, Ayala or SM, they can go up to Php295 a kilo! Also, these varieties aren't always available. So why not grow them yourself?
4) It's nice to show off! This doesn't seem like a very reasonable reason to start growing lettuces, but from my experience, my lettuces were the reason why my customers ventured into hydroponics in the first place. hahaha. When they see lettuces, and realize that it is possible to grow it at home, it's like love at first sight. Compared to seeing my herbs and other experiments, the lettuces are the ones that really pull them over to trying the hobby out.
How would you like to have your friends or family come over to your house to see a beautiful batch of Lettuces growing in your garden?
Now that I've explained some basic reasons as to why lettuces should be considered as a beginner's first plant, I'll start with those tips!.
HEAT MANAGEMENT:
You've probably wondered if Lettuces can be grown in Cebu in the first place. With our weather, it would seem impossible. Lettuces are usually shipped from the colder provinces or grown in the mountains.
It is good to note: Lettuces don't like heat. A little over just a bit can cause the leaves to wilt or sulk. However, once the clock moves to the late afternoon, the plants revive themselves. So one would ask, "If they revive themselves, why do i have to manage the heat?"
Answer: IT WILL CAUSE THE PLANT TO GO BITTER! Aside from wilting or dying, turning bitter is something you really really want to keep from happening. No one wants to dig into a salad that tastes a whole lot more bitter than Bitter Gourd/Fruit (A.K.A Ampalaya). That's right!
If lettuces are exposed to too much heat, it will cause them to go bitter. So bitter that it isn't worth eating anymore.
Solutions: "So how do I keep them from wilting and going bitter?"
1) Spray with ice water-- You will notice nowadays that from 10-3pm, the sun is intense. The way i manage the heat is by spraying the leaves of the lettuces with ice cold water. This cools them down and keeps them from wilting. Spraying them every other hour until the intensity of the sun goes down is enough.
2) Cover the Hydroponic System -- you will need to cover the system with either transparent plastic, thin cloth, mosquito net, or UV ray sheets to buffer the intensity of the sunlight. I'm quite a picky person when it comes to prices, so i went with the cheapest solution here -- i went to national book store, got a massive roll of plastic that i usually use to cover my college text books, and used that to cover the system. (this goes well with keeping the rain out as well).
***TAKE NOTE: If you've tried growing lettuces before in Cebu or in a hot climate and had them die or note grow at all after they've reached 3-5cm of height? Too much cheat can cause STUNTING. This is where the plant will no longer grow. As for lettuce, it may continue to live for 2 months, but stay at the same size for the entire time. You wouldn't want that.
SUFFICIENT SUNLIGHT:
Just like any other plant, lettuces need sunlight. It is an essential component in the making of chlorophyll.
My first experience with lettuces, i assumed that since they like cool environments, it would be best to keep them shaded. WRONG!
"What happens if the lettuces don't get enough sunlight?"
1) Pale leaves:Without chlorophyll, leaves will turn pale. This signals a malnourished lettuce.
2) In Search for sunlight: lettuces are known to look like big green flowers. They grow OUTWARDS. If they do not have sunlight, they will look for sunlight - they do this by growing very very long stems and move around to look for light.
You will eventually have snake-like lettuces with pale leaves as hair.
Below is a picture of my first try at lettuce - my first failure.
SOLUTION: "So what do I do to ensure enough sunlight and not too much heat?"
If you've been reading carefully, i mentioned earlier to cover the overall system. Notice that the alternatives that I mentioned as a cover were all either transparent or some-what transparent? This is to allow the sunlight to seep in, as well as buffer the heat.
***TAKE NOTE: Lettuces need 4-6 hours of sunlight every day. The best times for this is 7-9am, and 3-6pm.
On my side, I have placed my system under my huge chestnut tree. Early in the morning, the sun rises and allows sunlight to hit the plants. As it goes to noon, the tree casts a shade over my plants as the sun moves. You may want to use this strategy when planning a location for your plants.
***ANOTHER NOTE: Seedling sprouts need sunlight too!
Many people believe that seedling sprouts need to be in the shade - since they're too young, they cannot live under hot and intense sunlight. This is partially true - however, they are still plants in the making, thus they need sunlight. What happens when they don't have sunlight? They too grow thin and long stems, in search for sunlight. THIS IS NOT A GOOD THING!!! Many may think, "oh, the longer it grows, the better, since it's growing bigger".
Seedling sprouts will grow long and tall without sunlight - since they do not have enough nutrients and energy to grow thick stems, their stems are weak. This will result into them falling over and dying. So keep them under partial sunlight, at least 2-3 hours a day will be enough.
HARVEST EARLY:
I made the mistake of thinking , 'The longer the plant grows, the bigger it'll get, and thus - the higher the value".
It is hard to think that plants have an expiration date. As for lettuces, look at them as if they DO have an expiration day. Their expiration day is 40 days. Growing them in the ground, however, may vary. But hydroponically, you MUST MUST MUST harvest them before 40 days.
"What happens if I dont harvest them sooner ?"
1) BITTER: Just like the instance with too much heat, old lettuces will grow bitter. Very bitter.
2) MILK-LIKE SAP: Have you ever tried cutting through a bark of a tree or a plant, and have a milky, sticky sap come out of the wound? Old lettuces will develop a similar reaction, but this time, it's not the stem of the plant that will create the sap. Bite into the leaves, and not only will you have a bitter treat, but the leaves itself will produce this sap. Anywhere on the plant that experiences a wound will produce this sap. Now, don't panic if you do happen to eat a lettuce during this phase; the sap isn't poisonous. It's just not as pleasant to eat.
3) BOLT INTO SEED: If you are growing lettuces to for consumption, then you don't want this to happen. Old lettuces will eventually grow upwards and flower. The flower will then produce seeds.
"How can you tell if they are bolting into seed?" -- I mentioned earlier that lettuces are known to grown outwards. When the plant bolts into seed, it grows upwards, and produces smaller leaves. What you will end up with is a christmas tree - like image. The tip of that image where one would normally put the start at the top, will produce flowers.
And that ends this entry. It may have not been much, but these are my notes in growing lettuces. it sure did help me when growing mine. :)
Do take note that this is just for reference, and i'm not telling you to do every single thing mentioned here. I do this to enhance your gardening experience and perhaps, keep you from making similar mistakes as i have done. haha.. Remember, IT'S YOUR GARDEN! You tailor it to your preferences and yours only.
Happy gardening! 'Till next entry!
Ulyssa
Sunday, October 23, 2011
Hydroponic Tomato Success!!!
I have been experimenting with several plants, and as you can see in my previous posts, most of them are the simple and easy to manage plants, such as herbs and lettuces. Along with my more advanced plant experiments (Melon and broccoli), I have also been growing Tomatoes! CHERRY TOMATOES to be specific.
I wasn't too sure with this experiment, so that led me not to post any entries about it. I heard from other hydroponic enthusiasts that there is a problem with "end blossom rot". This is a condition where the fruits rot at the bottom before ripening. But still, i wanted to prove that hydroponics, using my system, nutrients and such, works! And if it doesn't, well, hey! At least I gave it a shot.
Aside from that, many of my customers who visit the garden ask me "will this work with anything else, aside from herbs and lettuces?". I have to be aware of the fact that since i am catering to Cebuanos, not all Filipinos use basil, tarragon, sage and lettuce in the kitchen. Truth be told, majority of my customers are expats (foreigners) from America, Germany, Canada, and so forth. If my customers are Cebuanos, they have either been using herbs for quite a while or have been educated to use it (culinary students, chefs, wives of foreigners, mid-high class individuals).
So i have to prove that Hydroponics works on crops that is used in many of the filipino dishes. My first step was -- TOMATOES!
In all honesty, it wasn't hard to do at all. Tomatoes are quite easy to grow, whether it be on the ground or elsewhere. But they do consume a lot of nutrients. They are known to be "nutrient-hungry-plants". Unlike herbs and leafy veggies, tomatoes are one of the many "fruiting" plants that eat a large amount of nutrients when they start to fruit.
To my delight, i came to check on them one night, and saw the cutest cherry tomatoes on their way!
I didnt harvest much, since it was only a single plant for experimentation, but hey! LOOK WHAT I GOT!
I wasn't too sure with this experiment, so that led me not to post any entries about it. I heard from other hydroponic enthusiasts that there is a problem with "end blossom rot". This is a condition where the fruits rot at the bottom before ripening. But still, i wanted to prove that hydroponics, using my system, nutrients and such, works! And if it doesn't, well, hey! At least I gave it a shot.
Aside from that, many of my customers who visit the garden ask me "will this work with anything else, aside from herbs and lettuces?". I have to be aware of the fact that since i am catering to Cebuanos, not all Filipinos use basil, tarragon, sage and lettuce in the kitchen. Truth be told, majority of my customers are expats (foreigners) from America, Germany, Canada, and so forth. If my customers are Cebuanos, they have either been using herbs for quite a while or have been educated to use it (culinary students, chefs, wives of foreigners, mid-high class individuals).
So i have to prove that Hydroponics works on crops that is used in many of the filipino dishes. My first step was -- TOMATOES!
In all honesty, it wasn't hard to do at all. Tomatoes are quite easy to grow, whether it be on the ground or elsewhere. But they do consume a lot of nutrients. They are known to be "nutrient-hungry-plants". Unlike herbs and leafy veggies, tomatoes are one of the many "fruiting" plants that eat a large amount of nutrients when they start to fruit.
To my delight, i came to check on them one night, and saw the cutest cherry tomatoes on their way!
Great thing about hydroponics is that i didnt get much pests. Sure, there were a few, but none that were potentially dangerous. After a few more weeks of waiting and constant check ups and cheers, the cherry tomatoes finally made it!
I didnt harvest much, since it was only a single plant for experimentation, but hey! LOOK WHAT I GOT!
With this, i have proven that IT DOES WORK!
The thing i'm most proud to say, really, is - if you've been in Cebu for a while, you know that cherry tomatoes aren't a regular variety in the grocery stores. If they do show up, once in a blue moon, their prices are unreasonably high! The ones i've seen are php50-80 for a small packet of about... i dunno... 10-20 tiny tomatoes. Not to mention their tiny sizes.
What i have here, is proof that you can do it alone! Sure, it may take some time and practice, but that's what makes it all the more fulfilling when you're out there, picking them from the branches of the plant yourself. Best of all, it's SAFE! You know what the plant has been through, you know if there's pesticide or not.
Last thing is.. you are self sufficient. Everyone knows how hard it is to get money here - not just in Cebu but everywhere else in the world, in fact. This way, you'll have your own food to pick from your backyard - fresh, price-less and satisfactory. :)
'Till Next Entry!
Ulyssa
Thursday, October 6, 2011
UPDATE! 11th day of Hydroponic Melon Experiment - Hydroponic vs Traditional/Organic Gardening
As mentioned in one of my previous blogs, I am currently experimenting on Hydroponic Melons (honey new melon to be exact).
Yesterday, October 5-2011, was the 11th day of its growth from seed. I have also decided to combine this experiment with another experiment : HYDROPONIC MELON vs. TRADITIONAL/ORGANIC MELON!! Tadaa!
First of all, what is the difference?
HYDROPONICS is the method of soil-less gardening where plants are grown on water, while organic/traditional gardening is the method of growing plants in the soil with organic inputs/fertilizers.
Here is the picture i took late last night of the melon plants.
Now... when you first look at it.. you'd think "THERE's NO DIFFERENCE!"
But like one of my favorite classroom games in preliminary school, 'Spot the difference', if you look closely, you can see that the hydroponic melons have a bigger 3rd leaf and are starting to grow out their 4th leaf while the organic melons are still working on their 3rd leaf.
Here's a close up!
With this close up, you can see the difference. It may not be much of a big comparison at the moment, but when in the gardening world, one day is a BIG difference. hahaha. The hydroponic melons are growing 1 day faster at the looks of it (so far).
And this concludes my little experiment for the day. I will continue to post updates on their performance. GO GO GO HYDROPONICS! :D
'Till Next Entry!
Ulyssa
Yesterday, October 5-2011, was the 11th day of its growth from seed. I have also decided to combine this experiment with another experiment : HYDROPONIC MELON vs. TRADITIONAL/ORGANIC MELON!! Tadaa!
First of all, what is the difference?
HYDROPONICS is the method of soil-less gardening where plants are grown on water, while organic/traditional gardening is the method of growing plants in the soil with organic inputs/fertilizers.
Here is the picture i took late last night of the melon plants.
Now... when you first look at it.. you'd think "THERE's NO DIFFERENCE!"
But like one of my favorite classroom games in preliminary school, 'Spot the difference', if you look closely, you can see that the hydroponic melons have a bigger 3rd leaf and are starting to grow out their 4th leaf while the organic melons are still working on their 3rd leaf.
Here's a close up!
With this close up, you can see the difference. It may not be much of a big comparison at the moment, but when in the gardening world, one day is a BIG difference. hahaha. The hydroponic melons are growing 1 day faster at the looks of it (so far).
And this concludes my little experiment for the day. I will continue to post updates on their performance. GO GO GO HYDROPONICS! :D
'Till Next Entry!
Ulyssa
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Looking after your Mint Plants!
Second to basil, i would have to say that mint would be the highest selling herb that i have .. if only i can produce enough to meet all the requests, that is. So, for those who have purchased several mints from me, or even you, dear reader, who have your own mint at home, may find this next entry helpful.
If you just purchased a mint plant recently, and don't have a clue on how to look after it exactly - or if you've had a mint plant for quite a long time, but haven't been having good experiences with it living very long - then keep on reading! Since i'm no pro in plants myself, but i DO have months of experience with mints, i'll give you a few tips on how to care for them to have them looking like this!
SOIL CONDITION:
The best mix of soil you can have is vermicompost, coco choir/peat/moss, and a bit of gravel for good drainage. You wouldn't want your mint plants to have root rot (a condition in which the roots rot from clogged water in the soil - eventually will kill the plant).
You could also go to a hardware store and buy a mix of potting soil ; last i checked, TRUE VALUE, AYALA CEBU had a few sacks of perfect soil mixes.
KEEP THE SOIL HYDRATED!
Now, a lot of my customers have the habit of 'leaving the plant alone'. By this, they forget to water it, assuming that it will do fine for a few hours or for the rest of the day. MIND YOU! The heat in Cebu is so intense that it can kill your plants if exposed for 4 hours without any water to begin with! (trust me.. i lost several that way).
It's understandable that we all have busy schedules, but you have to make atleast a bit of time to water your plants. You must must must must WATER YOUR MINT PLANTS! You don't need to water the whole section, as long as you can keep the soil hydrated for the roots to absorb.
Frequently mistake: "i forgot to water my mint plants! the leaves are starting to wilt and the plant is drooping forward. what do i do!!?"
The signs of dehydration is:
-dull leaves (they turn into a dull-color-green and are not glossy)
-thin leaves - thin enough to feel like tissue paper.
-no more crisp - the leaves are no longer crunchy and will easy rip if you tug on them
Solution - WATER IMMEDIATELY! If you got to your mints soon enough, the mints will revive themselves. As long as the plant has its original color, then it will return to its normal state within a few hours or by the late evening. If you tend to your mint when its leaves have turned brown and the stems are hard - i'm sorry.
PRUNING:
Pruning is the method in where you "trim" your plants back to 1/4-1/2 of their sizes. This is very important!
Many of you might be thinking, "but if i cut them back, all the time they spent growing big will be wasted!"
Incorrect! Actually, pruning is very healthy for your mints. Mints grow through their leaf nodes.
A NODE - is the area of the plant where 2 leaves grow out. Mints in particular (as well as a few other herbs) grow out more leaves from the node after the first 2 leaves grow out. Thus, the more your prune off the top, the plant will be encouraged to grow out more through the lower leaf nodes and become bushy!
Frequent mistake:
I didn't prune my mint, 'coz i felt that it was growing into a nice bush without my intervention. Is that okay?
Answer - NO! Sure, your mint might look good now .. but after a few weeks, you'll see the result! The lower leaves will drop off, and will no longer produce leaves - this is the plant's way to conserve energy to produce more leaves at the top. After a few weeks, your pretty mint will look like a skinny scarecrow with a bad hair-do. Leaves will be growing at the top, but the branches and stems at the bottom will be exposed and it wont look pretty anymore.
To keep this from happening, YOU NEED TO PRUNE IT! By pruning off the leaves at the top, you are redirecting the plant's energy to stay at the bottom and spread.
HOW TO PRUNE? where do i cut?
it is best to cut right above a leaf node.
if you cut above a leaf node, 4 more leaves will grow out of those nodes and form a new stem! Tada!!!
***IMPORTANT NOTE! When pruning your plants, make sure to leave some healthy sets of leaves at the bottom. Leaves act as the plant's lungs. Without it, they cannot breath - and thus die out. This is a good thing to remember when harvesting too.
CONTAIN YOUR MINT:
What do i mean by "contain" your mint? It is advisable to grow your mints in pots. You MUST control your mint's growth. An important fact to remember is: Mints are INVASIVE PLANTS. This means, that they spread through their roots, and if you do not contain them, they will invade and take over your whole garden. Yes yes... think of them as grass or weed. if you do not control its growth, mint will become a pest. no matter how hard you try to dig it out, if a root is still beneath the soil, it will sprout out in no time and continue its course.
many of you might be thinking - "i don't think thats a bad thing! who wouldn't a lawn of mint?". True , that would be nice. But If you are growing other plants in your garden, mints will suffocate their nutrient source and take over the whole garden under your nose.
how to mints invade? After a certain amount of time, if you lift your mint plant from the pot, you will notice that the bottom of the plants haves STEMS!!! Mint's roots will eventually turn into stems and sprout out of the soil to become another mint plant. If you left this in the soil, you'd have a messy bunch of sprouts coming out of nowhere!
WHEN TO TRANSFER MINT TO ANOTHER POT:
And indication would be the sight of roots coming from the bottom. If you would want your mints to grow bigger than it already is, transfer them into bigger pots and add in more potting soil.
Another important indication would be the sight of new stems sprouting from the bottom and circling around the pot. This means that it is looking for new areas of soil to invade. You can either cut this off (if you are content with the current size of ur mint) or transfer to a bigger pot.
SECRET TO BIG HEALTHY LEAVES:
If you want big healthy leaves, the best way to achieve this is to space your mint plants well. Atleast 6inches apart from each mint plant. Once the mint plant produces multiple stems, you can trim them to make sure that they arent covering any of the lower leaves.
The reason why mints can grow big leaves is because of the SUN. The plant enlarges its leaves in order to absorb as much sunlight as it can. So if the top leaves are covering the bottom leaves or are covering ANOTHER mint plant, you're gonna have tiny tiny leaves, which you dont want.
Big healthy leaves look like:
And this ends my little lecture. :D What i've shared to you are things that i've learnt along the way when growing my mints. If you want to learn more, remember, "google" is your best friend! :D
If you just purchased a mint plant recently, and don't have a clue on how to look after it exactly - or if you've had a mint plant for quite a long time, but haven't been having good experiences with it living very long - then keep on reading! Since i'm no pro in plants myself, but i DO have months of experience with mints, i'll give you a few tips on how to care for them to have them looking like this!
Newly propagated mint plants! (pepper mint) These mints have rooted and have been in their tiny pots for 7 days now. They're crisp, and healthy. |
The best mix of soil you can have is vermicompost, coco choir/peat/moss, and a bit of gravel for good drainage. You wouldn't want your mint plants to have root rot (a condition in which the roots rot from clogged water in the soil - eventually will kill the plant).
You could also go to a hardware store and buy a mix of potting soil ; last i checked, TRUE VALUE, AYALA CEBU had a few sacks of perfect soil mixes.
KEEP THE SOIL HYDRATED!
Now, a lot of my customers have the habit of 'leaving the plant alone'. By this, they forget to water it, assuming that it will do fine for a few hours or for the rest of the day. MIND YOU! The heat in Cebu is so intense that it can kill your plants if exposed for 4 hours without any water to begin with! (trust me.. i lost several that way).
It's understandable that we all have busy schedules, but you have to make atleast a bit of time to water your plants. You must must must must WATER YOUR MINT PLANTS! You don't need to water the whole section, as long as you can keep the soil hydrated for the roots to absorb.
Frequently mistake: "i forgot to water my mint plants! the leaves are starting to wilt and the plant is drooping forward. what do i do!!?"
The signs of dehydration is:
-dull leaves (they turn into a dull-color-green and are not glossy)
-thin leaves - thin enough to feel like tissue paper.
-no more crisp - the leaves are no longer crunchy and will easy rip if you tug on them
Solution - WATER IMMEDIATELY! If you got to your mints soon enough, the mints will revive themselves. As long as the plant has its original color, then it will return to its normal state within a few hours or by the late evening. If you tend to your mint when its leaves have turned brown and the stems are hard - i'm sorry.
PRUNING:
Pruning is the method in where you "trim" your plants back to 1/4-1/2 of their sizes. This is very important!
Many of you might be thinking, "but if i cut them back, all the time they spent growing big will be wasted!"
Incorrect! Actually, pruning is very healthy for your mints. Mints grow through their leaf nodes.
A NODE - is the area of the plant where 2 leaves grow out. Mints in particular (as well as a few other herbs) grow out more leaves from the node after the first 2 leaves grow out. Thus, the more your prune off the top, the plant will be encouraged to grow out more through the lower leaf nodes and become bushy!
Frequent mistake:
I didn't prune my mint, 'coz i felt that it was growing into a nice bush without my intervention. Is that okay?
Answer - NO! Sure, your mint might look good now .. but after a few weeks, you'll see the result! The lower leaves will drop off, and will no longer produce leaves - this is the plant's way to conserve energy to produce more leaves at the top. After a few weeks, your pretty mint will look like a skinny scarecrow with a bad hair-do. Leaves will be growing at the top, but the branches and stems at the bottom will be exposed and it wont look pretty anymore.
To keep this from happening, YOU NEED TO PRUNE IT! By pruning off the leaves at the top, you are redirecting the plant's energy to stay at the bottom and spread.
HOW TO PRUNE? where do i cut?
it is best to cut right above a leaf node.
The areas where i have marked with a red circle are "LEAF NODES". |
***IMPORTANT NOTE! When pruning your plants, make sure to leave some healthy sets of leaves at the bottom. Leaves act as the plant's lungs. Without it, they cannot breath - and thus die out. This is a good thing to remember when harvesting too.
CONTAIN YOUR MINT:
What do i mean by "contain" your mint? It is advisable to grow your mints in pots. You MUST control your mint's growth. An important fact to remember is: Mints are INVASIVE PLANTS. This means, that they spread through their roots, and if you do not contain them, they will invade and take over your whole garden. Yes yes... think of them as grass or weed. if you do not control its growth, mint will become a pest. no matter how hard you try to dig it out, if a root is still beneath the soil, it will sprout out in no time and continue its course.
many of you might be thinking - "i don't think thats a bad thing! who wouldn't a lawn of mint?". True , that would be nice. But If you are growing other plants in your garden, mints will suffocate their nutrient source and take over the whole garden under your nose.
how to mints invade? After a certain amount of time, if you lift your mint plant from the pot, you will notice that the bottom of the plants haves STEMS!!! Mint's roots will eventually turn into stems and sprout out of the soil to become another mint plant. If you left this in the soil, you'd have a messy bunch of sprouts coming out of nowhere!
WHEN TO TRANSFER MINT TO ANOTHER POT:
And indication would be the sight of roots coming from the bottom. If you would want your mints to grow bigger than it already is, transfer them into bigger pots and add in more potting soil.
Another important indication would be the sight of new stems sprouting from the bottom and circling around the pot. This means that it is looking for new areas of soil to invade. You can either cut this off (if you are content with the current size of ur mint) or transfer to a bigger pot.
SECRET TO BIG HEALTHY LEAVES:
If you want big healthy leaves, the best way to achieve this is to space your mint plants well. Atleast 6inches apart from each mint plant. Once the mint plant produces multiple stems, you can trim them to make sure that they arent covering any of the lower leaves.
The reason why mints can grow big leaves is because of the SUN. The plant enlarges its leaves in order to absorb as much sunlight as it can. So if the top leaves are covering the bottom leaves or are covering ANOTHER mint plant, you're gonna have tiny tiny leaves, which you dont want.
Big healthy leaves look like:
Peppermint |
Spearmint |
And this ends my little lecture. :D What i've shared to you are things that i've learnt along the way when growing my mints. If you want to learn more, remember, "google" is your best friend! :D
I hope this served useful to you, dear reader. Happy gardening and have fun!
'Till next entry,
Ulyssa
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
My try on Hydroponic melons! -- first time!
Okay, so i've tried the easy things - lettuces, herbs, tomatoes, peppers ... now i wanna try something a bit bigger - MELONS! to be specific, honey dew melons! Now, i'm not sure if this will be successful... but it doesn't hurt to try!
So far, what i've done, is sprout my seeds. Doing this was easy since i've been sprouting seeds for quite a while (practice makes perfect!) . I was able to successfully sprout 28 honey dew plants and transplant them into individuals cups. In 3 more days, i will move them into the hydroponic system.
The seeds sprouted faster than i had expected - 3-4 days was all it took. At 8 days, this is how they looked like. On the 8th day, i transferred them into cups;
I've read that melons are a vine-plant; this would mean that they spread around a big area before producing fruit. doing this hydroponically would definitely be a problem! Since i am growing them in pipes and not massive patches of land. So ... i've decided to combine my hydroponics with vertical gardening! this is the process in which plants are trained to grow VERTICALLY as to growing horizontally (vine plants). I have yet to prepare my trellis (the support frame work in which the plants will be latching onto while growing upwards) .. so when it's done, i'll make sure to post the pictures here before installing it. :)
Let's hope this goes well! If any of you readers out there would like to give suggestions, please do. this will be my first time growing melons hydroponcially and vertically, so do tell your secrets! :D
'Till next entry!
Ulyssa
So far, what i've done, is sprout my seeds. Doing this was easy since i've been sprouting seeds for quite a while (practice makes perfect!) . I was able to successfully sprout 28 honey dew plants and transplant them into individuals cups. In 3 more days, i will move them into the hydroponic system.
The seeds sprouted faster than i had expected - 3-4 days was all it took. At 8 days, this is how they looked like. On the 8th day, i transferred them into cups;
sowed on September 25, 2011 - 8 days old! (since picture was taken) |
Comfortably sitting in their own cups now |
Let's hope this goes well! If any of you readers out there would like to give suggestions, please do. this will be my first time growing melons hydroponcially and vertically, so do tell your secrets! :D
'Till next entry!
Ulyssa
Monday, September 19, 2011
Video of "Hydroponics in Cebu!"
Hi everyone! I just wanted to share a video of my garden this time, rather than a written blog post. This way, you all get to see somewhat of a preview of what u should expect to see, if you do decide to visit the garden. :)
The basils look ... how do you say .."bald".. since i've been trimming them constantly for pesto. haha.. so they might look as bushy as expected.
'Till next entry!
Ulyssa
Saturday, September 17, 2011
Hydroponics in Cebu!
I first started off with hydroponics as a total beginner, this January 2011. I first started with styrofoam boxes which worked out "alright". But i saw it to not be space sufficient. So i experimented with pipes! I still use styrofoam boxes as set ups as well as pipes. What are the advantages of either set up?
STYROFOAM BOXES vs PIPES:
STYROFOAM
- Cheap : you can buy them off fruit stalls for only P50 or less
- Easy to outsource: can be found in the local fruit stands
PIPES
- Space efficient: the styrofoam boxes are quite bulky and can only hold about 8 plants where areas, a thin pipe can hold 15-16 plants.
- Durable: in terms of durability, pipes, ofcourse, beat styrofoam in many aspects.
- Present-ability: one can admit that looking at a row of veggies neatly aligned on white pipes are alot more attractive than a clustered batch of plants on bulky boxes.
The first pipe system i constructed was. After moving it around my house in search for more stable and sufficient light source, this system has become one of my favorites. It occupies approx 1meter x 2meters of space. The capacity is 75-135 plants. Amazing, isn't it?
I currently have 2 of this systems at the side of my house, growing mostly lettuce, and experimental plants (such as eggplant, okra and other veggies that i'm trying out).
A roof is set above the set up to keep rain water from entering the system as well as buffer (ever so slightly) any harsh rays from the sun that can dehydrate or burn my lettuce plants. I use plastic bought from National Book store (used to cover books) as a roof. One can use mesh net, or any transparent film if you prefer it.
Aside from those 2 duplicated systems, i have what i call the "Stair case" frame work. It occupies approx 1meter x 0.5meter x 1meter. It can occupy 5 4feet pipes (8 holes each), thus a total capacity of 40 plants. I have 2 of these stair case frame works, thus a total of 80 plants capacity for both set ups. These 2 set ups are placed beside each other, so the total surface it occupies is 2m x 0.5m x 1m. Not bad!
I'd have to say that it's one of the pretty set ups that i have so i have it infront of the house so people can see when they look over the gate (if they're curious).(haha!) I use this set up frequently when i have exhibits at the malls.
The system on the left, is lacking on layer at the top. We cut it so it could fit in the car when transporting it to the venue of an exhibit. |
Next, here is a portion behind my house that displays the styrofoam box set ups. I still like using them since i have a lot of them in the store room and i like the idea of recycling the trash of the fruit stands that usually throw these productive boxes away. They, too, grow my lettuce and herb collections. Since i am also supplying a restaurant of hydroponic lettuce, i use it help me meet the demand. :)
I havent measured the total area they occupy, nor the total number of plants they produce.But it's a very productive patch behind the house indeed.
I havent measured the total area they occupy, nor the total number of plants they produce.But it's a very productive patch behind the house indeed.
Lastly, i have an area also at the side of my house, in the yard, approx 2meters x 5meters where a larger A-FRAME SET UP is built. I use it commonly for my fruiting plants and herbs. Capacity is approx 500 plants (can be more if i add more pipes).
I have several videos on youtube and on facebook for those who want a clearer view on what i have around the house. :)
VIDEO (1)
VIDEO (2)
VIDEO (3)
VIDEO (4)
I entertain visits on TUESDAY, THURSDAY, FRIDAY, and ON THE WEEKENDS. Do take note that i'm not a full-time gardener, so i may not always be at the garden during the day. So if you'd like to visit, kindly contact me at 09393257253 / 09475847023 to schedule a visit. If i don't answer the phone, i may still be in class or am entertaining others. Kindly leave a text message so that i can get back to you as soon as i can.
I sell Hydroponic Starter kits for beginners and hold seminars every 2nd week of each month. If you'd like to learn this wonderful gardening method, do contact me so that i can register your name. if you would like to purchase materials or produce, do contact me as well.
I've had several visitors to the garden take pictures and post it on their blogs of their visit.. and it flatters me to see that my hard work and effort can actually inspire someone to start doing something like this. It took a lot of guts for me to decide to do this all on my own.. but i'll tell you this. I went through countless trial-and errors .. and when u finally get the result you were expecting , or something even better ... nothing can compare to it.
if you'd like to see more pics of the system and the garden, you can go to the Facebook page. You can also chat with me there since i'm almost always online there.
Again, if you'd like to visit the garden and see this personally, you can contact me at 09393257253 / 09475847023 . (if i cant answer the phone, leave a message and i'll reply asap)
'Till next entry!
Ulyssa
CEBU HYDROPONIC GARDEN
09393257253 / 09475847023
Ulyssa
CEBU HYDROPONIC GARDEN
09393257253 / 09475847023
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